Kyoto – Japan – April 2012

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Chion-in, Gin Kakuji, Gion District, Japan, Kyoto, Silver Pavillion, Tet Sugaku

Last of my sightseeing in Kyoto

My week in Kyoto in 2012 involved as much sightseeing as possible as there are so many wonderful places to visit.  One of the lovely places to walk through is the Gion District which is a traditional entertainment district.  It’s also known as Kyoto’s most famous geisha district.

The area is packed with bars, restaurants and traditional teahouses, and is really at its most atmospheric in the early evening, when the lanterns are lit and apprentice geisha flit about the back streets on their way to their appointments.

We did see one young geisha walking along but I didn’t get my camera out in time unfortunately.  But I did manage to snap a photo of one man in some sort of traditional garb; not really sure why he was wearing the clothes as he was just walking down the street.

We also visited Ginkaku-ji (the Silver Pavilion) and unlike the Golden Pavilion, this pavilion does not have a trace of silver on it.

When it was first built the plan was for it to be coated in silver leaf, but there was no money so the silver-less pavilion was converted into a Zen temple.

It does have a beautiful reflective pond and manicured trees, a raked sand garden, and a mossy wooded hillside from where you can see a low-rise urban backdrop.

We also took a stroll along the Path of Philosophy (Tetsugaku-no-Michi) which really is such relaxing way to spend an hour or two.  It was named for a Kyoto university professor who took his daily constitutional along this route.  There are also beautiful cherry blossom trees along the way.

 

Another wonderful place to visit is Chion-in temple which is the head temple of the Jodo sect of Japanese Buddhism.

 

The temple has spacious grounds and large buildings. The first thing you notice as you arrive at the temple is the massive main entrance gate and stands 24 meters tall and 50 meters wide.  It is the largest wooden gate in Japan and dates back to the early 1600s.

Kyoto is definitely one place that everyone should visit; it’s absolutely beautiful.

Kinkakuji-ji – Kyoto – Japan – April 2012

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Japan, Kinkakuji-ji, Kyoto, The Golden Temple

The Golden Temple in Kyoto

Kinkakuji-ji is said to be second only to Mount Fuji as Japan’s most famous sight.  As you can see it is famous for its gold-covered main hall which seems to float over its surrounding pond with a beautiful gold reflection.

Again this was another place in Kyoto that attracts many visitors so best to visit early in the morning or late afternoon just before closing time.

It was originally constructed in 1397 as a retirement villa and later converted into a temple.

The three storey pavilion is covered in bright gold leaf and features a bronze phoenix on top of the roof.  As I previously mentioned there is a mirror like reflection of the temple in the Kyo-ko pond which is extremely photogenic.

The temple was burnt to the ground in 1950 by a monk who was said to be obsessed with the temple and five years later a full reconstruction was completed which followed the original design exactly but the gold leaf was not extended to the lower floors of the temple – not exactly sure why – cost perhaps!!  Definitely worth a visit whilst in Kyoto.

 

 

 

Tenryu-ji – Arashiyma – Kyoto – Japan – April 2012

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Arashiyma, Japan, Kyoto, Tenryu-ji

Another shrine and beautiful garden in Kyoto

Tenryuji is said to be the most important temple in Kyoto’s Arashiyama district. It was ranked first among the city’s five great Zen temples, and is now registered as a world heritage site. Tenryuji is the head temple of its own school within the Rinzai Zen sect of Japanese Buddhism. (source: http://www.japan-guide.com)

I visited this beautiful temple and amazing gardens during my visit to Kyoto and found that it was definitely a place I was glad to have visited.  Another amazingly serene place but again very popular so worth getting up early to visit or going during the week days.

The gardens were beautiful with cherry blossom trees throughout.  The flowers were also very beautiful and I was fortunate to visit at the right time when they were in blossom.

At one time, the massive grounds were said to contain some 150 sub-temples, however, the temple was plagued with numerous fires, and all of the original buildings have been destroyed.

The temple complex met with fire over seven times so most of the buildings as they stand today are reconstructions.  Unlike the temple buildings, Tenryuji’s garden survived the centuries in its original form and features a central pond surrounded by rocks, pine trees and the forested Arashiyama mountains.

The complex also has a pebble garden (similar to the famous one at Ryonan-ji Temple) but without the distinctive rock formations.

Pontocho – Hanamachi District – Kyoto – Japan – April – 2012

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Hanamachi District, Japan, Kyoto, Pontocho

Traditional Architecture in Hanamachi District Kyoto

Whilst planning our itinerary for Kyoto, and living in Beijing, my friend Jenny had mentioned to me a couple of places we had to visit; one being the Gion District to see the Geisha and the other being Pontocho which is an old entertainment district with traditional restaurants, bars and a few of the city’s elusive Geisha tea houses.  I couldn’t wait!!

On our very first evening in Kyoto we walked to Pontocho from our hotel and on the way we walked past Kamogawa River which had restaurants and bars on its banks. When we arrived at Pontocho we saw it was centred around a narrow alley with beautiful walkways.  I immediately fell in love with this beautiful alley.

It’s a lovely place for a stroll, particularly in the early evening as when darkness is about to set in, lovely street lamps/lanterns are lit.  My research showed that Pontocho is a place where you might see Geisha rushing off to a tea house or performance – we didn’t see any  unfortunately (but did in Gion and more on that in another post).

We decided to try and find a place to eat as we had read that Pontocho has many fine eateries featuring mostly Kyoto cuisine. Of course all signs and menus are in Japanese and as my friend and I did not speak nor could we read Japanese, we had to go by the look of the place.

I knew that many of the restaurants in Pontocho require formal attire in the evenings and considering we were in jeans, we looked for somewhere that appeared to be more casual – we found a pub like place up some stairs and enjoyed a wonderful meal with wine and a lovely view.  The owner was such a lovely man and the menu had a little English but we worked it out and I was served a wonderful vegetarian meal.

We had read that the area is known for its high prices and exclusive establishments that only accept reservations from people they know or know by reputation. Other businesses in Pontocho aren’t particularly exclusive but require reservations by phone in Japanese.  So I think we were very fortunate to find this wonderful restaurant where we were the only two diners during the hour or so we were there.

Pontocho is definitely a place worth visiting especially at dusk.  Make sure you look down at the pathway – beautiful designs embedded into the stones.

Kiyomizu-dera – southern Higashiyama – Kyoto – Japan – April 2012

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Higahiyama, Japan, Kiyomuzu-dera, Kyoto

A temple with a love shrine in Kyoto

(this map from http://www.kiyomizudera.or.jp)

Kiyomizu-dera which literally means ‘Pure Water Temple’ is one of the most celebrated temples in Japan. It was founded in 780 on the site of the Otowa Waterfall in the hills east of Kyoto, and derives its name from the fall’s pure waters. The temple is located half way up Otowa Mountain and people come from all over Japan and elsewhere to visit the waterfall and drink the sacred water from a ladle.

The temple was originally associated with the Hosso sect, one of the oldest schools of Japanese Buddhism, but formed its own Kita Hosso sect in 1965 (source http://www.japan-guide.com).

I visited this temple and surrounding grounds during my visit to Kyoto in 2012.  The temple is renowned for its wooden stage that juts out from its main hall, thirteen meters above the hillside below.  It gets incredibly busy on this wooden stage; I expected this really, as it’s what the temple is known for – felt a bit like everywhere in China.

The stage affords a lovely view of the cherry and maple trees below, as well as the city of Kyoto in the distance.

The main hall, which together with the stage was built without the use of nails and houses the temple’s primary object of worship, a small statue comprising eleven faces and a thousand arms.  This statue is said to have the power to answer prayers.

(photograph from www.kiyomizudera.or.jp)

Behind the temple’s main hall stands the Jishu Shrine which is dedicated to the god or goddess of love and matchmaking. In front of the shrine are two stones, placed eighteen meters apart. It is said that if you are successful in finding your way from one to the other with your eyes closed you will find love.

(three photographs from www.kyojapan.com)

One interesting point I learnt whilst at the shrine was that you can have someone guide you from one stone to the other, but that is interpreted to mean that an intermediary will be needed in your love life as well.  Amusing!!

There are lovely grounds surrounding the temple and beautiful small ponds and lakes; all worth seeing when you are strolling around.  Another wonderful site in gorgeous Kyoto.

 

Ishibei-koji – Southern Igashiyama – Kyoto – Japan – April 2012

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Ishebei-koji, Japan, Kyoto, Southern Igashiyama

Kyoto’s Most Attractive Street

Ishibei-koji is regarded as Kyoto’s most attractive street.  And it truly is lovely (like everything else in Kyoto really).  I suppose to me it was more a little lane-way than a street, and it’s for pedestrians only which is wonderful as you can stroll along enjoying the ambience and enjoying everything it has to offer.

Along the street, which is only about 200 metres long, I saw several Japanese women in their traditional garments; the kimono – all so different but equally beautiful.  And it’s not only the visitors to Japan who love to see the Japanese women in their traditional wear, the Japanese love to look at them too.

We stopped at a gorgeous little tea house and enjoyed a cup of tea and I just loved the entrance to the tea house and the inside ambience  – fresh flowers on the tables and wonderfully friendly staff (who could not speak English but we worked it out).

At the entrance to Ishibei-koji (which is a little difficult to find as the signs are only in Japanese) there are rickshaw pullers who congregate waiting for their passengers.

One the day I went, I saw this absolutely gorgeous little girl dressed in traditional Japanese clothing – she was ‘so cute’ and her mum and she allowed me to take her photo.  I think you will agree she is beautiful.

Along Ishibei-koji, you’ll find nothing modern – only beautifully maintained traditional inns, restaurants and elite bars. The lane twists and turns a few times and at every turn there is a beautiful doorway leading into a home or restaurant etc.

Ishibei literary means stone moat. Because the houses on this street have beautiful stone walls, it was named ‘the narrow street with stone walls’.

There are also beautiful flowers lining the street and along the tops of the stone walls.

Another part of Kyoto which was truly beautiful.

 

 

Ryoan-Ji – Kyoto- Japan – April 2012

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Japan, Kyoto, Ryoan-ji

Another special place to visit in Kyoto

The temple at Ryoan-ji is a very popular site in Kyoto and said to be one of Japan’s better-known sights.

The temple was founded in 1450 and whilst the most popular area is the rock garden, there are other gardens to walk around with beautiful cherry blossoms and lakes to view.

As I mentioned, the main attraction is the rock garden which is an oblong of sand with an austere collection of fifteen carefully placed rocks.  They look like they are adrift in a sea of sand – all enclosed by an earthen wall.

It’s a very serene place to visit and you really must go first thing in the morning as it is such a popular place that it’s difficult to get a good viewing point with all the visitors.  From memory we had to remove our shoes to enter the temple and sit around the rock garden.

You can sit here and contemplate your life.  It really  is lovely and so quiet (so different to my visits anywhere in China where it’s noise, noise and more noise – even when it’s supposed to be quiet).  You take a seat on the wooden benches around one side of the garden and just relax and look  and do not much else…simple, harmonious and very zen – it’s lovely!!

 

 

Weddings, a Canal & Cherry Blossoms – Kyoto- Japan -April 2012

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Cherrry Blossoms, Japan, Kyoto, Kyoto River

 A chance to see two weddings in Kyoto

So this post will look at my week long visit to Kyoto in 2012…I had done a lot of research and wanted to visit a particular canal as it was renowned for its cherry blossoms which are growing along the river banks, outside beautiful Japanese houses.  I was not disappointed – the blossoms were beautiful!!

Sakura is the Japanese word for cherry blossoms and they could be one of the most beautiful things to see [ever] and Kyoto is definitely the place to see them.  But not only did I see the amazing cherry blossom trees but was very fortunate to see two weddings.  Both brides were dressed very differently and they certainly didn’t seem to mind me (and many others) taking photos.  They looked so happy; smiling at each other and just enjoying their very special day.

Cherry blossoms bloom between March and May each year and the internet provides a calendar of where in Japan the trees will blossom so if you are considering visiting, it is essential that you check out the dates the trees are blossoming and their location otherwise you may miss the blossoming as the trees blossom in different places at different times.

It’s funny how many photos you can take of the cherry blossoms as they are so amazingly beautiful.  The weddings were very special too.

It was so lovely just walking along the canal and looking at the Japanese homes, the beautiful cherry blossoms and the grooms and brides dressed in their traditional Japanese clothes.

Arashiyama Bamboo Grove – Kyoto – Japan – April 2012

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Cherry blossoms, Japan, Kyoto

  A week in Kyoto

Whilst I was working in Beijing, I made a week-long trip to Kyoto in Japan as I had heard from everyone I spoke to, that Kyoto was a beautiful part of Japan, and of course there are the cherry blossom trees and Geisha to see.  I looked up the best time to visit when the cherry blossoms were in bloom and with a friend, we departed Beijing.

I visited many places and intend to post on all my visits, but today my post is on my visit to the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove.  I loved Kyoto – it was absolutely gorgeous!!  And people were so lovely; albeit hardly any spoke English and I do not speak Japanese (but we managed – hand gestures work really well).

We flew on Air China from Beijing and then pre-arranged transport on the airport shuttle to our hotel (Toyoko Inn Kyoto Shijo-Karasuma), which was very small and not a hotel room you would want to spend much time in but it was ok!

Bamboo Grove is one of Kyoto’s most famous sites and said to be very similar to the bamboo forest in the film ‘crouching tiger hidden dragon‘.  I have watched the movie and do agree (fabulous movie).

 

The grove is very popular with Japanese tourists especially in the cherry blossom festival time, as like everywhere in Kyoto, there are many cherry blossom trees, but I was lucky  as it was a very wet day, and there were not ‘that’ many tourists.  I think the rain made the visit even more wonderful as the rain drops were falling on the bamboo which looked just lovely.

 

The bamboo is spectacular and it’s lovely walking through the paths with incredibly high bamboo surrounding you.

A weekend away to Nagoya – Chubu Region – Japan – 2010

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cherry blossom festival, Chubu Region, Japan, Nagoya

A visit to Nagoya for the cherry blossom festival

Whilst I was working in Hong Kong in 2010, I decided I needed to travel on some of the weekends, out of HK, and in particular to Cambodia, Singapore and Japan.  I wanted to see the cherry blossoms in Japan but did not really know where to go having not been to Japan before.  I did a search of the internet and found that the cherry blossoms were in blossom in Nagoya at the time I wanted to visit.

So I booked my ticket and off I went one Friday afternoon.  I caught the train into HK Airport from the city and hopped on my plane.  I had pre-arranged a driver at Nagoya to pick me up front the airport to take me to my hotel.  The taxis in Nagoya (and other cities in Japan now that I have also been to Kyoto and Tokyo) are the most delightful I have ever seen as are the drivers.  The black taxi cabs are incredibly clean, all with lovely seat covers and white doilies on the head rests and the drivers are in black suits with ties and white gloves.  I loved it.  No-body out of the hotel in Nagoya spoke English but I seemed to manage as the Japanese were so helpful and friendly.

The hotel was lovely and also clean but very small.  It did however have a wonderful restaurant overlooking a small waterfall so I spent some of the afternoon there reading a book and just enjoying the ambience.  But in the main I had a day and a half to do some sightseeing so on Saturday morning I took a taxi to Nagoya Castle where I had read had the most cherry blossom trees.  It was spectacular!  I could not believe how gorgeous the blossoms were and how fortunate I was that all the blossoms were in flower. Having since been to Kyoto and thought I had arranged my timing well to see the blossoms, that year they were delayed so I only got to see buds about to bloom on most of the trees.

Nagoya Castle, I must say remains as one of the most special places I have been to in the world…a big call perhaps but the cherry blossoms were magnificent; I went just at the right time of the year for the blossoms; people were incredibly friendly and I just had a wonderful time.

During my walk of the grounds of the Castle I saw hundreds of Japanese enjoying their Saturday; picnicking, walking around; spending time with family or their pets.  It was lovely to see.

My next stop was to the Noritake Factory/Museum where Noritake china is made.  I had a tour of the factory and of course bought a couple of items in the shop.  The grounds were beautiful with cherry blossom trees all around and gorgeous gardens.

My last stop in Nagoya during my stay, was on Sunday morning when I went to the Atsuta Jingu Shrine which like other places in Nagoya had beautiful gardens with gorgeous blossoming cherry blossom trees.